How To Clean & Store Cashmere & Wool Sweaters

It’s Spring! Well, for those of you who live in places with more moderate climates, maybe, but here in New England, we hold onto our sweaters well into June. Like most people I know, I don’t have the closet space for my entire wardrobe to cohabitate, so I break it up into “Summer” and “The Rest of the Year”. This is a massive production and cannot be taken lightly, especially if you are a tad OCD like yours truly (see link below to find out).

Here’s what you’ll need:

· Cedar (sachets, balls, blocks, etc. – If you have a cedar closet, I am jealous.)

· Lavender (sachets, soaps, dryer sheets)

· Clear sweater bags from your dry cleaner (free of charge)

· Plastic trunks or bins with tight-fitting lids (see options below)

· Baby shampoo

· Dryel kit (optional)

· Proper folding technique (see video below)

Sweaters must be cleaned before they are stored. A little know fact; moths and their larvae only eat dirty sweaters. That’s right, folks, they actually feed on what is left behind on clothing, so if your items are clean before you store them, no moth holes. The only wool I wear is Merino and if cared for properly, will last for years. Wool must be dry-cleaned (it will shrink if washed) or you can clean it at home with a Dryel kit. The bag has been greatly improved and it is an effective tool for items that can’t be dry cleaned or if you're concerned about the chemicals used in dry cleaning. It's also very cost effective and I use the kit for some of my unwashable, unstructured, winter hats and gloves/mittens that the dry cleaner won’t touch, and to freshen up my silk scarves. Be sure to follow instructions when using this product and remove items promptly from the dryer to avoid wrinkling.

Cashmere is expensive and can last for years if properly cared for. I have some sweaters that are over 10 years old and look like new and if you follow my instructions, yours can last for decades. First order of business, evaluate each piece. Where is it from? China? Italy? Scotland? The majority of cashmere that we see in the US is from China (what else is new?) and although it is the most affordable, it is also of the lowest quality. Sorry, but you get what you pay for. The truth is some of this cashmere claims to be 100%, when in fact it isn’t. This is evinced by the fact that it shrinks when it is washed. Quality cashmere, like that from Scotland, England or Italy (the crème de la crème), does not shrink and often gets softer and more luxurious after washing. STOP AND READ! Do not, under any circumstances, throw your cashmere into the washing machine with detergent! The best way to wash your quality cashmere (I’ll let you decide whether or not to risk that sweater from China) is to hand wash it in cold water and baby shampoo. Yep, that thick, golden stuff that Johnson’s makes. Personally, I buy the CVS brand and it works just fine. Use about a capful per sweater and let it soak for about an hour. After a thorough rinse, place the sweater on a thick towel and roll it up to absorb the excess water, place it in your dryer on AIR (no heat) for about 15-20 minutes, then dry flat on a clean, dry surface. I have one of those drying racks that has a mesh top which is great because air flows above and below. If, like me, you have way too many cashmeres to wash this way, you may use your washer if it has a DELICATE or HAND WASH cycle and you have mesh sweater bags (or you have old cashmeres that are hale & hearty). I wash some of mine this way and they are fine.

Further evaluation should answer the following questions; Are any other fabrics present? I have an Italian cashmere sweater that is a very dense weave with spandex in the mix. I only dry clean this one. Does your sweater have any embellishments like beading, lace or delicate buttons? If you have a trusted dry cleaner, go that route, otherwise, gently hand wash. On a side note, I only use a dry cleaner that does the work on the premises as they will take responsibility for lost or damaged items. Is it a hand knit, loose or complicated weave? I have a 10-ply basket weave turtleneck that I dry clean because of the length of time it takes to dry. I also own a long, loose-knit cardigan that I’m worried about stretching, so it too goes to the dry cleaner. Again, if you prefer, use a Dryel kit in lieu of dry cleaning as it is safe for cashmere. All of my basic, v-neck, crew neck, cardigans and turtlenecks go into the washer on delicate with tons of baby shampoo. Bear in mind that the baby shampoo does not cause a lot of suds, so it’s safe for the machine.

Okay, so after your sweaters are clean and dry, it’s time to put them away. Remove pins, staples and tags from the dry cleaner, fold everything neatly, place in a sweater bag (clear, no logo or ink) and stack into a large trunk or bin. I use plastic trunks and bins and add lots of cedar sachets and blocks along with lavender scented dryer sheets. Cedar and lavender ward off buggies and keep your clothes smelling fresh for when you remove them months later. Remember that cedar only works if you can smell it. That means if you have blocks that are old, you should lightly sand them each season to release their fragrance. All sachets and dryer sheets should be replaced seasonally. I sometimes buy lavender soaps at discount stores and put them in the bottom of my bins (also in my linen closet and lingerie drawer). Just make sure that they have actual lavender oil in them or they’re useless. It’s best to keep your trunks in a cool, dry environment, but if you don’t have A/C, at least keep them out of the sun and away from damp, unstable environments like basements or garages.